Bali Adventure Number 3!

A lot of this blog has ended up being about travel and a lot from my last visit to Bali, but it's such an amazing place I can't help wanting to come back again and again and having the lovely Rachel - www.howtoescape.co.uk living here is a big help too.

My journey started with a drive to my parents in Molesey after work down the M1 at about 7.30pm and we arrived approx midnight.  Up for a taxi at 8am to Heathrow and onto Malaysia Air flight to Kuala Lumpur a mere 12 hrs 35 minutes. There were some spare seats, but it seemed reasonable full despite all the bad press they've had recently.  

I'm travelling with my friend Anna and during the 12 hours we managed to keep ourselves entertained more via glasses of red wine and giggles than the in flight entertainment. I managed to watch 2 films - The Other Woman and The a Grand Budapest Hotel and slept very little.  The food and service from the staff was excellent.

We had time to walk from one end of KL Airport before our next Malaysian Air flight to Denpaser in Bali.  I are a sandwich and snoozed a bit. 

Rachel met us at the airport with a driver and it was an hour back to Ubud.  We checked into The Swan Inn - basic, but nice views and cheap at £18 per night.  

Anna had a rest and I went for a wander with Rachel and lunch at Juice Ja where I had the yummy lemongrass fizz, guacamole - amazingly fresh and a chicken curry salad.

I bought my favourite drink here which is supposed to be medicinal...

Rachel headed home and Anna and me headed out for dinner, a stroll and the intention of taking advantage of the many beauty parlours offering very reasonable deals.  

We dined in a lovely place overlooking the rice fields with small lizards creeping onto the walls and the sun setting.  I had my first Bintang and we both had the set menu of iced tea a traditional Balinese dish - I had nasi champur and Anna had Nasi Goreng finished with fresh papaya, melon and pineapple.  I also splurged and had a hot and sour soup - all for a total of £5!  

We went on our next mission - finding somewhere to get our nails done and had a brief side track to a shop full of clothes perfect for tiny Anna!

She bought a lovely 60s style dress and a skirt.

We then settled in at Forrest Spa and I had a pedicure (necessary for my horrible runners feet) and Anna had feet and hands nail polished - here's my before and after - I know I don't have pretty feet!

I feel asleep whilst having this done, but now at 3.30am am wide awake!  We wandered back to the hotel room for some planning and some of the wine we brought with us with improvised wine glasses.

Oh and they still do this....

Sukawati Market, Sanur Beach and a long journey home

This blog entry I'm writing on the train back to Leeds from Kings Cross.  Everyone said that I would be really shocked by the weather and how cold it would be, but actually it's been quite pleasant.  I do love the warmth and sunshine of Bali, but there is something to be said of the ability to walk 100 yards without literally dripping sweat everywhere!

Anyway, I wanted to write about my last full day in Bali which was really good fun.   The day started very well with a gorgeous Banana Pancake with caramel and coconut on it and the usual selection of fruit - Papaya, Pineapple, Watermelon and the option of a tiny banana or green tangerine with coffee.   Rachel came by my hotel with Kiran having found a really lovely guy to be our driver for the day called Putu - Made was busy with some preparations for a family cremation.

First of all we drove to Sukawati market as the market that I'd been keen to visit in Ubud is currently being renovated.  Sukawati market is huge and I think that we saw only a very small part and mostly the tourist shops, and it was perfect for completing my holiday present shopping.  I bought 3 sarongs for the pretty batik patterns that I will be able to use in my embroidery and sewing work, a lovely little dress for one of my friend's babies (who hasn't been born yet so will have to wait a while to grow into it.), some small paintings for my Mum and some incense for Coddy from the "local" part of the market.  Everything is brightly coloured and I could really spend a whole lot of money there and if transporting them back to the UK wasn't an issue I'd love to buy some of the amazing wood carvings and furniture.

We got back in the car and drove out to Sanur which is a beautiful coastal resort.  We grabbed some lunch - impressively there was a baby chair so Kiran was able to bang his hands on the table and make a mess of all the food that he was eating and Rachel got to eat using both hands for a change.  We both had some very tasty Nasi Campur.

It was a warm and sticky day and so we walked along the beach and found a nice spot to lay out our sarongs and get into our swimming things and Rachel put Kiran into his swimming outfit.  He was much more interested in playing with and trying to eat the sand of course.  

We went into a beautifully clear sea which was really calm and shallow, and as warm as a nice bath and perfect for Kiran's first experience of swimming in the sea.  He loved it and smiled and giggled as we splashed him around in the water.  Rachel and Kiran got out and I swam around for a bit until I spotted a sea snake nearby and so decided that was a good time to get out!

We walked along the beach for a little bit and I bought an amazing kite for my Dad which was shaped like a boat and we saw a Labrador that was happily lying in the sea enjoying the warm water (he was there for ages as we saw him on the way there and the way back!)  

Our driver took us back to Ubud and we got showered and changed and relaxed in the hotel room until Made came with Maya to pick us up and take us to a lovely restaurant for dinner.

The restaurant was very attractive and a large section of it had individual tables in little huts where you sit on cushions on under low tables.  We ordered a big fish sharing platter and some rice and it was pretty spicy, but really tasty.  Maya and Kiran amused themselves by trying to crawl under the table and Kiran enjoyed shredding paper napkins like an Andrex puppy.  I ordered a young coconut drink which was huge and very tasty.  Basically it was a whole young coconut with the top sliced off and some sugar, avocado and jelly added to it - was more than enough for a pudding even though it was just a drink!  

After dinner I was dropped back at the hotel and was determined to fulfil the final thing on my list that I'd wanted to do and I walked down to find somewhere that I could get a manicure!

I initially went back to the first place I'd been where I'd got my pedicure done earlier on - Kenko, but at 8pm it looked distinctly closed so I walked back and just went for the first place that wasn't too far off the main street who shouted "Yes massage" at me!  I asked if they could do a manicure then and they said yes and I went to Daisy Spa which was by no means glamourous, but for £3 for a manicure I was more than happy.  At the last minute I also thought that I may as well get my toes redone as the pedicure I'd had was starting to chip after 10 days of walking around in flip flops and so the girl got her friend and I had my feet done at the same time.  It was a bit of a weird place and experience made even odder when the girl doing my nails told me "You are beautiful, I like your face".   I took it as a compliment, but "I like your face" is one of the strangest compliments I think that I've ever been paid.

Back in the hotel room I packed up my suitcase as I knew that getting up at 4.30am I wasn't going to want to do very much at all and I managed to snatch about 4 hours sleep before Putu came by at 5.30am to pick me up and drive me to the airport.

Yesterday was a really long day - the whole day went like clockwork in terms of getting picked up, the flights that weren't delayed and the transfers that were very smooth, but 19 hours or more of travelling is just exhausting.  I grabbed breakfast at the airport in Denpasar and even though I was tempted by Eggs Benedict, I dedicated that an Indonesian breakfast was a good idea as I'm not likely to get the chance again for a while.   The journey from Bali to Singapore was very smooth and I had a brief snooze in between the time when they fed us.  The transfer from Terminal 1 - 3 in Singapore was smooth, a brief walk and the "Sky Train" in between the terminals with about 10 minutes free to buy 2 very expensive bottles of water for $4.  On the 13 hour flight from Singapore to London I managed to watch a total of 4 1/2 films!  I was trying hard to keep awake to try and right my sleep pattern by going to bed early and waking up at a usual time this morning.  I think that it's more or less worked, although I did practically fall asleep in my dinner.

First of all I watched "The Hunger Games" as I was interested to see how it was done compared to the book that I'd read earlier on in my holiday.  The film is really faithful to the book and it was very similar to how I'd pictured everything in my mind.  The portrayal of the main character - Katniss Everdeen was very good and just as I'd imagined her, the actress - Jennifer Lawrence looked very similar to how I had imagined her.  Peeta Mellark who was one of the other main characters looked different as I'd not imagined him to be blonde, but Josh Hutcherson portrayed him well in terms of character.  I suppose my only criticism was that they didn't really make as obvious in the film in comparison to the book the main characters feelings about each other, they glossed over it a little which was disappointing, but does make for a neater conclusion.

Next was People Like Us I'm not sure why I chose this one, but it was a bit of an odd film with a plot that could have been shortened and tidied up considerably, but felt quite unnecessarily drawn out.  Basic premise is that Sam the main character is a bit of a shyster and is short of cash, in debt and doesn't visit his family.  He ignores calls from his Mum all day and then his girlfriend tells him that his Dad has died.  He makes every effort to avoid going to the funeral including hiding his ID from his girlfriend, but they end up arriving there late and missing the funeral.  His Mum is played by Michelle Pfeiffer and she is clearly angry with him and a lot of the film explores their strained relationship.  Sam picks up a note from the lawyers about his fathers will which is an odd request to deliver $150000 in cash in a shaving bag to a "Joshua Davis" who he then discovers is his Dad's Grandson to a half-sister that he never knew existed.  The majority of the film then is a slightly farcical exploration of him getting to know his sister and nephew without revealing until right at the end who he is so that she ends up trying to kiss him.  All in all it's a bit weird.

Total Recall the remake was next.  I think I've watched bits of it in the past, but I can't remember watching the whole film.  I was a bit sleepy during this one so I think that I may have nodded off and had to rewind at points.  I do remember that they left in the 3 boobed lady from the original film in the dodgy district that the main character - Hauser visits to go to Rekall.  The premise of the film is good and the remake seemed good too - although I can't remember if I've seen the original in full to give an accurate comparison.  It reminded me quite a lot of Inception that I've seen recently and the special effects were very accomplished.  The ending was fairly satisfying and there of course were lots of parallels that can be drawn with global politics which I always find quite interesting.

Finally I went for Papadopoulos & Sons which was actually a lovely film.  It was the story of a self-made Greek millionaire - Harry Papadopoulos - who over leverages himself and ends up bankrupt apart from £25K cash and a closed down fish and chip shop that he co-owns with his estranged brother.    When he is evicted from his mansion with his 3 children, they all decide to move into the shop and re-open the business and it's a lovely exploration of family connections, and whether money or happiness is more important.  I really liked the film, it had a predictable ending, but it wasn't too saccharine sweet and had some good performances from some British actors. 

I started to watch 2 days in New York which was quite good, but I just kept falling asleep and then they collected up the headphones, so I'll have to have another try at this one in the future perhaps. 

The flight got in a little early to Heathrow and so my parents only had to wait a few minutes for me and then drove me back.  I gave them my presents, managed to eat some curry takeaway before falling asleep very early for me at 10pm.

Starbucks and Dancing Ubud Style

We had and idea yesterday that we might get a driver to take us to the beach, but we actually decided that we weren't really in the mood.  Rachel felt in one of those odd bad morning moods, so I decided to take her to Starbucks to cheer her up!  I know that they have been bad and not paid their taxes, but I did think that introducing Rachel to a Salted Caramel Mocha would right a fair few wrongs in her world (and I think I was more or less right!)  

Starbucks in Ubud is very tasteful and blends in with the surroundings pretty well and is a fascinating clash of the epitome of Western culture and chain brands, with a very distinctive Balinese flavour to it.  You can buy pretty much everything you would in a UK or USA Starbucks, but you get a real feel for Bali with the wooden carved furniture and the cushioned seating areas.  Kiran enjoyed crawling around the cushions as well as chewing on my purse.

we nipped into a book shop and I took the opportunity to buy Fragrant Rice by Janet De Neefe which is also about Bali and will be good for me to read on the way home. We  took a leisurely wander down Bisma which is still quite un-touristy with views of rice fields, although a lot of the dirt path that Rachel had remembered was now very much road paved by the hotels popping up all along the road.

We went back for a relax at the hotel and then went off to Juice Ja for a late lunch/early dinner.  I had a very tasty Chicken quesadilla, an Americano and 2 cardamon flavoured lassis.   We met a very precocious 4 1/2 year old girl who could speak Balinese, Indonesian, Thai, French and English and told me that I was fat because I ate too much and that she was fat too because she ate too much.  It didn't manage to put me off eating an incredibly tasty lemon and poppyseed cake with frosting served on the side.  

We came back to my room and I set about Baby proofing so that Kiran was contained whilst Rachel was talking to her Dad on Skype.  I also did some embroidery and applique to make Kiran a sleepsuit (It's what Rachel sings to him if he's getting a bit upset and it settles him down.)

Made picked Rachel and Kiran up at 7pm and so I went along to watch some Balinese Traditional Dancing and saw dancers from Sanggar Pondok Pekak performing the Legong dances, this is what my leaflet had to tell me:

The Sanggar (traditional music and dance) studio portion of Pondok Library and learning Center was founded in 1998, originally to provide dance classes for local children who didn't have other opportunities to learn.  Since then it has grown to include free children's gamelan classes, an international women's gamelan troupe and a professional men's troupe.  privately funded Sanggar Pondok Pekak is supported by our "Art of Bali" classes for travelers, private donations and proceeds from our evening performances   Many thanks to all those who help support our efforts.

The performance started with an instrumental piece with lots of men and boys playing the Gamelan which is similar I guess to a Xylophone and also there were lots of drummers.  There were 6 dances in total and I won't depict all of them here, but I'll cover some of the more interesting notes from the programme and give you a flavour with some of my pictures (which aren't great as it was dark and I was only using a phone to take close up pictures).

This is from the opening Sekar Jagat Welcome dance which represents the ritual presentation of an offering in the form of dance and is performed by a group of young girls.

Baris Warrior Dance - The Baris Dance, a dazzling dance glorifying the power and strength of a Balinese warrior, is most commonly performed as a solo exhibition dance, often by a young boy.  This expressive dance is broken into 3 parts each expressing the different moods and range of emotions of the young warrior.  The word Baris means line or file, as in a line of warriors going into battle.

Oleg Composed in the 1950s this duet represents the Courtship of two bumblees they flit from flower to flower in a beautiful garden.

Jauk This traditional mask dance portrays a demon, alone in the jungle, who is free to play, move and be happy.  Watch the ancient costume as the dancer turns around!

This drummer checked his phone in a gap between the performances.

All the dancers taking a bow.

I liked the dancing, it was different and had very strong facial expressions.  The music was also quite haunting and dramatic.  I can't imagine how long it takes to get ready and put all the make up on the dancers!  I remember how long it too Rachel to get into her wedding outfit and this must be similar, but for multiple people!  I hope that next time I come to Bali I get to see the Kecak and fire dance which is supposed to be good too.

Balinese Batik and Japanese Dinner

Saturday morning I had booked to do a Batik class with I Nyoman Warta - booking was quite interesting as I'd had to wander into his house in person on Thursday at Jalan Gautama No 12 and speak to his son as his wife didn't have enough English to understand what I was asking!  I wrote my name in a book for Saturday and the money I wanted to pay which denoted the size of the Batik that I would be doing.  Anyway, weirdly enough it turns out that I had been trying to book with the very similarly named I Nyoman Suradnya who is at number 10 (i.e. next door!) and had emailed on Tuesday, but not received a reply, which is why I had gone along in person to book.  Just a bit confusing to have two Batik artists next door on the same street with nearly the same name!  You would think that they might try and differentiate themselves a little better!  The benefits I think from the class I ended up taking accidentally are that it was one to one tuition and cheaper from what I can tell from looking at the other teacher's website.  

So I arrived at the class and there was an Australian couple picking up their completed Batik (reassuring as it was literally his house that I'd gone into for the class!) and after a little confusion the teacher gave me some paper and told me to sketch.  I was at first a bit taken aback, I had though that a class would be very much him teaching me, maybe showing me examples or giving me some stencils to use.  I haven't really done any sketching since I took a drawing workshop at Buns & Roses last year!  I sat looking a bit lost for a while and so he suggested that I drew what I loved about Bali - I said that I loved everything and then I thought about the one thing that I love more than anything - Cats!  I took out my IPhone and scrolled through my saved pictures before coming up with the one of Pocky below to base my design on.

I started off by sketching the outline of Pocky with her paw draped over the side of the chair, but slowly changed the chair into a branch and made the underneath into a pond using some of the pictures of the fish I'd seen at the Holy Water temple to inspire me (as well as copying some of the pictures that the teacher had on display).  I also put some Frangipani Flowers in the top corners for decoration as one of the things that I love about Bali is their fragrance and the fact that *Everything* is decorated with flowers and often they are Franipani.  Here is my initial sketch.

After my sketch on paper I was then given a frame with cotton stretched over it and I had to transfer the design in pencil onto the fabric.  Nyoman told me not to worry if the pencil showed as the Batik process would hide it.  He then gave me a sarong to wear (I think to protect my trousers) and showed me how to apply the wax to the lines on the design that I wanted to keep white with a special instrument called a Chanting or Tjanting.  I practiced first on some paper and found it fairly easy to get the hang of, you just need to angle it right so you don't get too much wax rushing out at once and move it with confidence along the lines that you want.  Similar in technique I think to icing letters onto a cake.  Here is the next stage of my Batik with the sketch outlined in wax and a picture of the pot that is used to melt the wax.

Nyoman then provided me with 4 different pots of coloured dye - red, yellow, brown and blue and showed me how to apply the dye which you can do fairly freehand and don't have to worry about staying in the lines!  I used the brown for Pocky and then swirled a lot of the colour around with a reassurance that the next layers would add more detail.  Here is another process picture.

The next stage was pretty simple - applying some green coloured liquid over the whole screen - it looks like he's doing it for me, but he just showed me what to do and I filled in the rest!

The next stage was very simple - he asked his son to rinse the screen for him and then he dried it off with a cloth and left it in the sun for a few minutes to dry.

We then sat down next to the melted wax again and he showed me how to use a normal paint brush to block out bits of the picture that I wanted to stay that colour e.g. some of the fish scales, parts of the Frangipani flower and the whole of Pocky apart from her eyes that would be black and would be the last colour to go on.

The next part was really good fun - sweeping loads of paraffin over the main parts of the picture for "cracking" - basically I coated the whole of the "water section" and the "sky section" with a layer of paraffin.

The next bit is also fun - you run your finger nail underneath the paraffin covered areas to create "cracks".  

When you are happy with the cracks a layer of darker blue dye was put over the entire screen with a bit think paintbrush.

The paraffin cracking process is then repeated and this time red dye is put over the whole picture, first some more areas are blocked out with wax to keep the same colour such at the flowers.

The process is repeated again and this time black dye is put over the entire picture with special attention to applying it to areas that I wanted black such as Pocky's eyes and the fish eyes.  I also did some cracking along the tree branch to make it look a bit like wood.  To make sure that the dye made it all the way through, it's applied to the back of the screen too.

And then finally it was the big reveal, to remove the wax I had thought it would be a case of complicated ironing off of all the wax, but it was actually much  more straight forward - you just dunk it in a big bucket of hot water and it melts off into the water!

They washed it a couple more times to remove all the wax fully and then it was hung over a tree to dry and I chatted a little more with Nyoman who has limited English beyond teaching Batik, but was able to tell me about how he'd been due to exhibit and teach in Holland, but then his sister died and he had to cancel his plans to save for her cremation ceremony and then he had been due to exhibit and teach in Germany and then his father died.  He really was a lovely teacher and so genuine - all along he said that if I wanted a break and to come back later he wouldn't charge any extra as he charged per piece and not per day and how he felt it was important to only teach small groups at a time so that people didn't make big mistakes and were disappointed with what they created.

  

After my Batik had dried I paid Nyoman and walked back to my hotel room for a well earned cool down and break (Nyoman had even sent his son during the lesson to buy tissues as he could see I was so hot!)  

Rachel came over with Kiran who had achieved a record 2 hour nap!  It was getting into early evening so we decided upon an early dinner and walked over to her favourite Japanese restaurant - Kagemusha which has a lovely view over the rice fields and she'd often seen cats in!  I tried some local rice wine - Brem which was only 10000 rupiah (60p) per glass and was surprisingly tasty and we both opted for Bento Boxes for our main courses which came with loads - Miso soup, noodles, rice, vegetable and prawn tempura, chicken and some vegetables and pickles.  Kiran enjoyed the food, but enjoyed pulling himself up over the rails next to the ricefield and shouting with glee!

Right at the end of the meal we saw something that I've wanted to see since I first arrived in Bali this time - a Tokay gecko!  They are basically bigger versions of the small lizards that you commonly see running around all over the place, but make the most noisy and strange calls at night that sound like they should be made by a bird - you can hear them yourself Here.  And here is a picture that I took before this particular Tokay snaffled a moth it had been chasing. 

We walked back up Monkey Forest Road stopping to pick up some Snickers flavoured ice cream for dessert (diet starts when I get back to England, or maybe Leeds at least!).  We decided to grab a glass of wine and so went back to Arts Kafe which was fine until the band started playing complete with Bongo drums waking Kiran up who had very easily fallen off to sleep in his sling.  Wine in Bali is not cheap - it was 75000 rupiah in Arts Kafe which is particularly pricey and usually about 35000 rupiah, however in most places it's about 185000 a bottle which is what we paid for a bottle of Hatten White Wine in Arts Kafe - about £11.  A local beer in comparison is only about 15000 rupiah or £1.  Rachel walked back with a sleepy Kiran, I finished the wine and grabbed a grape juice and some water from the shop on the way back before heading to bed at an unheard of time for me at 10pm as I was totally exhausted!